Shoe-sewing machine.



M. H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

I I -P LIOTIPN PI-LED JULY 23, l900. Aug. 29

12 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

M. H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 2s, 1900.

' Patented Aug, 29, 1911.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

M. H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE; APPLICATION FILED JULY 23, 1900.

Patented Au 29, 1911.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

M. 11. PEARSON. SHO E SEWING MACHINE.

I APPLICATION FILED JULY 23, 1900. I 1,001,980. Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

l2 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

M. H. PEARSON.-

I SHOE SEWING mama 0 APPLIGATION FILED JULY 23, 1900. 1,001,980, v Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

12 SHEETS-"SHEET 6.

Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

12 SHBETSSHBET 6.

M. H.- PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 23, 1900.

Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

M. H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED JULY 23, 1900.

Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

messes;-

M; H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE, 'Agrnnumn FILED JULY 23, 1900.

Patented Aug. 29, 1911-.

12 SHEETB-BHEET 9.

M. H. PEARSON. $1103 SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 23, 1900.

.L 1 9 1 9 2 av u A m m M P 12 SHEETS-SHEET 1o.

M. H. PEARSON. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED June), 1900.

Patented Aug. 29, 1911. 1

12 SHEETS-SHEBT 11.

M. H. PEARSON.

SHOE SEWING mama. APPLIOAJJJION FILED JUi-Y 23, I900.

' Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

12 SHEETS-SHEET 12.

I z i 2 i I M4606 MARSHALL HENRY PEARSON, or LEICESTER, ENGLAND, assien'on 'ro UNITED, SHOE JERSEY.

MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PA'IERSON, JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW SHOE- SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent/J Patented Aug. 29, 1911.

Application filed July 23, 1900f Serial No. 24,548.

To all whom it may concern: 4

Be it known that I, MARSHALL HENRY PEARSON, a subject of the Queen of Great.

Britain and Ireland, residing at Leicester, in the county of Leicester, England, have invented certain new and useful Improve ments in Shoe-Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full,

clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. I

The present invention relates generally to shoe sewing machines, and more 'particularly to shoe sewing machines of the lock stitch type such as are commonly used to stitch the outsole to the welt in welted work, and to some extent for inseaming in both welted and turned Work.

The object of the present invention is to improve the construction, organization, and

is illustrated in the accompanying draw-' mode-of operation of machines offthis class and to this end it consists "of a shoe sewing machine having in combination with such other mechanism as may be required to construct an operative machine of this class, theronstruction and arrangement of which may be varied-to meet special requirements and at the option of the designer, of certain novel features which cooperate with such mechanism to secure a moreperfect operation of the machine as a W1. as hereinafter more fully described in this specification andpointed out in the claims.

A preferred form of the present invention 'ings, in which,

Figure 1 1s a plan view of a shoe sewing .maehine embodying the same, Fig. 2 is a side elevation taken in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 1, the driving pulley being omitted, Fig. 3 is a side elevation taken in a reverse direction, the thread holder and a portion of its actuating mechanism being pmitted, Fig. 4 is aside elevation of the needle and; awl actuating mechanism, Fig. 5 shows the same parts in plan, Flg. G is a sectional detail of the awl and needle seg ments taken on line a'm Fig. 5, Fig. 7 is a front view of the needle and. awl, and a portion of their actuating mechanism, Fig. 8 is a sectional view showing needle guide,

needle, and its segment in side elevation,

Figs. 9 and .10 are respectively side and front elevations illustrating the thread feed mechanism, Fig. 12 is a side elevation of the presser foot and its liftingmeclianism, Figs. 13 and 14 are corresponding views of the same parts in different. positions, Fig. 15 is a side view showing a portion of the feeding mechanism, Fig. 16 is a plan View of the thread lifter, take-up, and their actuating mechanisms, F ig. 17 shows the same parts in side elevation, Fig. 18 is a plan view of the thread holder and a portion of it's actuating mechanism, Fig. 19 is a section through the thread holder at y-- 2 Fig. 12, Fig. 20 is a detail of the thread holder tension, Figs. 21, 22 and 23 illustrate the looper, thread-eye, and portions of their actuating mechanism.

Inv the. drawings B represents a frame suitable to support the working parts of the machine. Frame B has a base 6 which maybe mounted upon the usual supporting column. It is also provided with thestandards Z), I), as is usual in the construction of this class of machine. In the standards Z), Z), are the hearings for the driving shaft A. The frame B also comprises certain brackets and other rigid members which are necessary to properly support the-working parts of the machine and which will be hereinafter referred to in so far as is necessary to enable any person skilled in the art to construct the machine.

C represents the needle which is mounted in a needle segment 0. The needle segment is mounted to turn loosely on the feed sleeve,'hereinafter to be described, and carries a segmental pinion, preferably made integral therewith mating with a segmental gear carried by the lever c which is pro-- jected froma hub or sleeve 0 mounted to turn on a shaft a supported by the stand ards b 5 forming part of the frame B.

Projected from the hub or sleeve 0 is an arm 0 which carries a cam roll engaging the cam groove 0 (see dotted line Fig. 4) in the inner face of the cam disk 1.

D represents the awl, which is secured in the'awl se ment 01, mounted to turn loosely on the fee sleeve and u on which is formed a 'se ental pinion matin with a gear on the ever 01, which is pro ected from a hub or sleeve d mounted upon the shaft a said hub or sleeve d having anarm dflwhich carries a cam roll, engaging the cam groove d, in the inner face of disk 4 (see dotted lines Fig. 4). j

E represents the needle guide which is secured to an annular support 6, which is also mounted on the feed sleeve andwhich is actuated to keep the needle guide in proper relation until acted upon by the tappets.

The annular support 6, the hub of the needle segment 0, and the hub of the awl seg ment 0?, as shown in the drawings (Fig. 6)

bear laterally against each other, and in their contiguous faces are formed grooves which register with each other to form the ball races 6, 7 and 8 in each of which run a series of balls in the' usual manner. The bearings just described may be conveniently adjusted by means of the cone 9, having threaded bearings on the feed sleeve, a locknut 10 being conveniently provided.

By the novel features heretofore described, in the arrangement of the awl, needle and needle guide and the construction and arrangement of the bearings and actuating mechanismtherefonl am enabled to maintain these parts in their proper. alinement and. the same time secure an easy operation thereof without the development of excessive friction, and without undue wear of said parts, which is an important feature in this class of machines.

F represents the feed sleeve, which is mounted and free to slide upon a short shaft a, supported by the brackets 12 forming a part of the frame B. The shaft a is of sufficient length and the brackets b are located a suflicient distance apart to allow suf ficient longitudinal movement of the sleeve F to secure any required length of feed. The sleeve F isprovided with an annular flange 11 (Fig. 6) which cooperates with the cone 9 and check nut 10 to hold in position the annular support e of the needle guide, the needle segment 0 and the awl seg-.

ment (l and to cause them to be moved laterally by the longitudinal movement of the feed slide.

As shown in the drawings the longitudinal movement of the sleeve F is imparted thereto by means of a lever f, projected from a hub f, which is mounted to turn on a short vertical shaft a supported by the frame B. The hub f has an arm f which carries a cam roll which engages the cam f on the inner face of the disk 2'. A suitable spring is provided conveniently the coiled spring f connected to the arm f and to the bracket b which acts to hold the cam roll on arm f against the cam 1.

The front end of the lever f is connected with a lug f on the sleeve F by a pivotal and sliding connection as f. The above described arrangement is such that a rotation of disk2, by means of the arm f hub f and lever f, imparts a longitudinal reciprocating movement to the slide F and a laterally reciprocating movement to. the needle and awl segments and needle and awl carried thereby. Provision is made in the mechanism hereinheforedescribed for ac-' tuating the needle and awl for' their lateral movement by making the segmental gear on the awl actuating lever cl (Fig. 5) wider than the awl segment (Z (the segmental gear on needle lever 0 requiring little if any widening) and tlie'awl and needle mechanism is so timed that the sleeve F is moved in the direction of the feed while the awl is in the work and in a reverse direction while both awl and needle are out of the work.

It will be noted that the awl D and needle C are set off from the plane of the centers of their respective segments (see Fig. 7) so that they work in the same vertical plane and with reference to the movement of the feed sleeve and of each other they operate as follows :The awl pierces the material while-the feed sleeve is in its retracted position (to the right Fig. l),- the needle then being out of thematerial in its retracted position, the feed sleeve then moves over to its advance position, the awl carrying along the material and thus accomplishing the feed.

The awl then withdraws from the material and the needle enters the hole made thereby] The needle then withdraws from the material, the awl remaining out of the same and the feed sleeve moves back to itsretracted position while both needle and awl are thus withdrawn from. the material.

In boot and shoe Work it is often necessary complish this result while the machine is in operation, and to this end in the machine of the drawings I have provided the following mechanism. Supported in suitable bearings in the frame B in which it is free to turn,-1s. a shaft (L to which is rigidly secured a segment 9 located below the disk *2. On the 1nner face of the segment 9 is formed a cam g which is arranged to be engaged by a lug or projection g on the arm f and to limit the movement of the arm f toward the 2 as caused by the spring f, by thus limiting the movement of the arm f the cam g limits the movement -of lever f and feed sleeve F and hence the length of the feed. By turning the segment g the position of cam .may be varied so that thelug g will contact earlier or later therewith varying the extent of the swinging movement of.

.to vary the length of the feed and to acarm f and thus securing any required length able stop pins (not shown) of feed. The shaft a carries inconvenient position for the operator a hand lever 9 which may be conveniently arranged to move along a segment plate 9* in which are pro vidcd a series of pin holes to receivesuitwhich limit the y pr e y movement of; the lever 9 191118 the operator can placing these 'stop readily make'the necessary changes in feed sir-able feature where a machine is to be shoe work.

V the work.

run at high speed-as is usual in boot and I'also secure asimple, certain and durable means for adjusting the length of feed during the operation of the machine. P represents the presser foot which cooperates with the work support Q, to clamp the work. The presser foot P is forced down by a spring to'perform its clamping function and is raised to remove its pressure from the work to permit the feeding movement of As shown the presser foot P is secured to the bent lever 2 which is fulcrumed'upon a stud a, supported by the bracket of frame'B. In the lever y) is formcd'an inclined groove 79 in which runs a slide block carried by the lever 79 the arrangement being such that. when the lever 72 is depressed the slide block carried thereby is moved along the groove 2) toward the fulcrum of lever 77, forcing 'the lever 71 forward and bringing the presser foot P down on to the work. lVhen the level 72 1s raised the slide block is moved along the groove 79 away from the. fulcrum of lever p and the lever 72 is swung back and the p-r'esser foot raised.

p The lever 72? has a hubp which is free to turn about the shaft a secured to the The hub p? is not mounted di- 72 hereinafter referred to. the lever p also carr-iesthe rigidly projected arms 1) and p, the arih'joff being acted. upon by a spring to depress the lever p and hold the presser foot 'P down on' the work and the arm 79 ihein'g connected with the presser foot raising f sail s nin .60 O L l mechanism and acting through the lever p to raise the presserfoot against the tension 7 As shown, a coiled spring is provided, whichis connected at one end to the arm 72 and at the other to some fixed portion of the machine. The spring 72 is always under tension and normally acts todepress the lever 79 and hold the presser foot l down on the work. '-Means for adjusting 'p the controlling. spring insert the work.

with the needle disk 4. A spring 2) is provided which acts to hold the cam roll p against the cam. The lever p carries. a spring pressed pawl 72 of which acts when the pawl is free to bring it into engagement with the ratchet 72 on the lever The pawl?) has a projecting lug p?" which is arranged to engage a pin 32 secured in the frame of the machine, such engagement taking place when the lever p is in its highest posit-ion, engagementof the pawl 79. \Vhen theleve-r action of the cam on and preventing the p with the ratchetp is depressed by the disk 4, the lug leaves thepin 7: and allows the pawl 32 to engage the ratchet p and any further-depression of the .lever 72 and thereby raise the lever p and the presser-foot P.

A handle 39 is provided by means of which the presser foot P may be raised to It will be noted in connection with the foregoing description of the presser foot, and its cont-rolling mechanism that in the machine of the drawings, the presser foot can always be raised by the handle 1), but cannot be raised by any pressure liable to be ex-' erted under the foot, and further, while work is being fed the foot is raisedto the same height above-the work under varying conditions as to the thickness thereof. It is also to be noted thatby my improved construction, greater .pressure is obtained and the work more firmly held than by the devices of the prior art, all of which features I regard as important in this art. In the machine of the drawings the needle has its hook or barb on the ontside and the looping instrumentalities consist of athrcad eye and loopcr which coiiperate with each other to draw the needle thread across-the path .of motion of the needle and in contact on the outside, so that, as the needle is retracted from the material, its hook catches the thread and draws aloop thereof through the material.

In the drawings W represents the thread eye which issecured to a bent lever a which 1s.r1g1dly secured to a short shaft a having hearings in the frame in which it is free to turn.

The lever w is connected by a suitable pivotal sliding connection, conveniently the usual form of slot and block connection, with one arm w lof the bent lever to fulcrumed on a shortishaft a' supported by the r me! ot e arm wt 32 will depress the lever of said lever car-.

rying a' cam roll which engages the periphery cam on the disk 4:. A'suitable spring is provided to keep the roll in engagement with the cam. The above described arrange ment is such that a rotation of the cam imparts a vertically oscillating movement to the thread eye'W.

L represents the looper and is mounted upon an Oscillating segment Z which is mounted in a guide Way in the frame B (see dotted lines Fig. 1). The lever Z is actuated by means of the swinging lever Z which is connected to the segment I by suitable pivotal sliding connection and at the other end carries a cam roll Z which engages a suitably shaped cam on the disk 3. Intermediate its ends, the lever Z is fulcrumed o a fixed stud on the frame B.

The operation of the devices above described will be best understood by considering it in relation to the operation of the needle. Assuming the needle to be in its retracted position the hook of the looper and the thread eye'are substantially in line, the hook of the looper engaging the thread between the thread eye and the Work. Before the needle descends, the looper is moved by an oscillation of its segment across the plane of motion of the needle, and a portion of the needle thread is held substantially horizontal leading across the planeof motion of the needle and outside of its path of motion. The needle then descends and penetrates the material and the thread eye is moved inward, moving the needle thread against the needle so that, when the needle rises, the thread is caught in the hook thereof. By

the improved arrangement of the looper hereinbefore described I am enabled to give it the required movement to effect with certainty the insertion of the loop of thread into the hook of the needle, and at the same time leave the center of the machine free from obstructing parts.

In the machine of the drawings the thread holder is of'the stationary elongated type as distinguished from the discoidal shuttle commonly used in this class of machine. The thread holder is shown at S and is circular in section, and of general cylindrical form. The thread holder is loosely held in a casing s which substantially surrounds it,

the thread holder resting upon a bar 8' which extends across the bottom of the cas-v ,ing. The thread holder's is provided with downwardly extending thread nose through which the thread leads from the bobbin and which engaged by the bifurcated end of the bar 8' (see Fig. 19), to prevent any rotation of the'thread holder. It

will be noted, as shown in the drawing, that the elongated thread holder S is supported in an oblique position with relation to the plane of motion of the needle. This arrangement greatly facilitates the passage of the thread around the thread holder including both the delivery of the loop to and the clearance of the loop from. the thread holder. Inside the thread holder is a bobbin of the type usual in thread holders of this class. The thread leads from the bobbin through the eye 8 then through a tension device 8 and through the thread nose of the thread holder. As shown the tension device 8 consists of a spring plate 80, having an upturned portion 31, which bears against the regulating screw 32 having threaded bearings 33 in a projection from the thread holder. By turning the screw 32 the pressure of the plate 30 on the thread may be regulated. The-thread leads from the opening s in the thread holder around a pin 3a.

set in a projection 35 from the thread holder and thence between said projection and the plate 30 to the nose of the thread holder.

In the machine of the drawings, the thread is taken from the needle by the thread lifter, from which it is taken by'the thread holder hook and passed over the thread-holder. In the machine of the drawings T represents the thread lifter which is carried by a lever t projected from the huh I? mounted on a short shaft a suppcrted'by the frame B. Projected fromthe same hub t is the short lever t connected by suitable pivotal sliding connections, conveniently by the roll and slot as shown, with the bent lever t mounted upon, and free to turn about the stud a supported by the frame B. At the other end of lever t is mounted the cam roll 6* which engages a suitably formed cam groove t on the outer face of the cam disk 4. By the above arrangement a rotation of the cam will impart a vertically oscillating movement to the thread lifter T.

N represents the thread holder hook, which, as before stated, takes the thread from the thread lifter and passes it around the thread holder, leaving it in such position that the take-up can draw it under the thread holder. The thread-holder hook N is mounted on an arm n projected from the hub n mounted to turn on a short shaft a I frame B. The other arm of the lever 223 carries a cam roll which engagesywiththe face cam in the disk 1. .The movement of the thread holder hook is so timed with the movement of the thread lifter that afterthe lifter has taken the loop of thread from the needle and raised it toward the thread holder, it is taken by the thread holder hook and carried over the thread holder into such position that when the take-up acts, it can pull the loop around the thread holder and bring it into position in the material.

My improved thread holder, as compared with shuttles of the stationary'type in the prior art, has an increased thread carrying capacity in proportion to the length of the loop required to be drawn around it, and

the passage of the thread over the thread holder is more readily and easily effected and there is less liability of the loop of v thread being caughtin any portion of-the' thread holder mechanism. with the several types of movable shuttles,.

As compared my improved thread. holder absorbs less power and creates less vibration. It also requires no oiling of parts li'able to'come in contact with the thread.

. It is to be understood thatwhile a peculiar form of thread holder has been described and shown it is not intended by theuse of the term thread holder to limit the claims to anyparticular' form of thread holder, since other forms may be used in the 001m binations defined thereby without departure 7 from the invention.

After the loop of thread has been passed around the thread holder, it is pulled down through the work to complete the stitch by the'takeup. In the machine of the drawings the take-up is of the vertically oscillat-' ing typecommon to this class of machines and engages the thread between the'thread measurerand the work. v

It represents the take-up roll mounted.

' upon the lever 1*, projected from 'the hubr i such that a rotation of the cam will impart a vertically oscillatingmovement to the take-up R properly timed with relation to. the other stitch forming movement's.-

. Another feature of the present'invention is the thread measurer, which, gives up thread in varying quantities while the takeup is pulling in the' stitch and while the thread is locked atthe supply side, thusdetermining' the position of the bight of thread, commonly called the lock, in the materiah-a-nd which, when the take-up has: finished its thread-pulling stroke, andiwhile the thread, is unlocked at the supply side,

acts to draw thread from the supply for the next-stitch. In the machine of the-drawings the-thread measurer 1s shown at M,and

mg stroke.

amount of thread given to the take-up by which has been drawn around is mounted on a lever m which is projected from a hub 11:. free to turn 9n the shaft or stud a supported by the frame B. From the hub m is projected a lever m which carries a cam roll m which bears against a periphery cam on the disk 4. The cam roll m is held in engagement with its cam by a suitably placed spring conveniently the coiled spring m securedat one end to the lever m and at the other to a stationary part of the machine. From the-lever m is projected a pin m which engages a slot m in a link 'm, pivoted at m to the bent lever which carries 'the .presser, foot P. As

heretofore fully described, the bent lever 19 is raised or lowered in accordance with the .thickness of the stock and the above described arrangement is such that by the action of the canton the roll m the thread nieasurer M is always raised to the same height, but since .the point to which it can be depressed by the action of the spring m is determined by the bottom of the slot m, the position ofwhich is-determined by the position of the lever p,.th e thread. measurer M is notbrought to the same'position by its downward movement but to varying positions dependent upon the thickness of the stock. The downward movement of the thread measurer M is its delivery or threadgiving movement, whereby it gives up thread to the take-up during its thread pull- It therefore follows that the the thread measurer willvary in accordance with the thickness of the stock, and

- sinceall the thread-pulling movement of the take-lip, not required to take up the loop holder and the stock and which is given to it by the thread measurer, is available to draw the bight'into the material, and since the length of the thread holder loop is con- 'stant,.it follows that the amount of thread given up by the thread measurerdetermines the position of the lock.

"To secure the operation of the thread .measurer as above described, I have provided a suitable thread lock whereby the thread is intermittently lockedbetweenthe thread measurer and the supply to. prevent it being drawn from the supply. As shown in the drawings the thread lock consists of a fixed" jaw K secured to a bracket 70 projected from the frame B, and a movable jaw -K eccentrically pivoted on a hub is from which is projected a lever 70 having iently a'roll and slot connection, with a lever it projected from a hub is free to turn on the stud or, supported by the frame B.- (Se'eFigs. 9 and 10). Projected from the the thread a pivot a-l and sl iding connection, conventhe disk 1. A spring 76 is provided which holds the cam roll in engagement with the cam.- The thread leads between the jaws K and K through the wax tube to the thread measurer M. The cam is so formed and timed that the jaws K and K remain open during the upward movement of the thread measurer M so that thread can be drawn freely from the supply, and close just before the take-up starts on its downward or thread pulling movement and remain closed during such movement and during the downward movement of the thread measurer which delivers thread to the take-up.

While no special form of waxing device is essential. to the successful operation of my invention as heretofore described, I have shown in the drawings an improved waxing device whichl consider a useful adjunct of the present invention and as contrilmting to the successful operation of the machine embodying the same. As shown in the drawings, the waxing device consists of a main receptacle or reservoir H in which the cool' wax is placed. This reservoir communicates through a .port it with a wax tube h, conveniently arranged in a vertical position and'in line with the lead of the thread from the jaws K, K to the thread measurer M. The wax tube It is provided at the top and bottom with the strippers If, [L2 which may he of any usual and convenient construction. The upper stripper is for the purpose of preventing too much wax being drawn out of the tube by the thread,- and the lower stripper is to prevent the escape of wax through the aperture which admits the thread to the tube. The tube 71. is conveniently formed in a metal block 71 that forms a. part of the bracket in and in, which is formed another tube or chamber h into which steam is introduced through a pipe W, said steam emerging through the pipe it. By this means the block 71 is heated and the wax kept at proper temperature for application to the thread.

The operation of these several features of my invention as illustrated in the. drawings has already been described in connection with the description of their construction and arrangement. It is therefore necessary to'give only a brief description of the machine of the drawings as a whole.

. Assuming that a stitch has just been completed, the awl and needle being at this time both retracted from the work, and the work held by the pressure of the presser foot, the awl first pene rates the work, the presser foot then lifts, releasing its pressure on the Work, and the awl is moved laterally to accomplish the feed. As soon as the work has been fed, the prcsser foot drops and again grips the work, and the looper pulls the thread across the path of the the work, the looper at the same time returning and releasing the thread. When the needle has reached its retracted bsition,

the thread lifter takes the loop 0 thread therefrom and raises it toward the topof the thread holder and intoposition to be taken. by the thread holder hook which takes it over the thread-holder and the take-up then tightens the stitch. l

l' have not illustrated in detail in the drawings the several cams herein referred to, for the reason that from the foregoing description of the construction, mode of operation and timing of the machine, such cams can readily be made by one of average skill in the art without the exercise of invention, such construction requiring only the usual skill of a sewing machine designer. I

Having thus described my invention,'I claim as novel and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United Stzites;

1. .A look stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle, a stationary thread holder, means for supporting the threzul-holder, a thread lifter for taking the loop of thread from the needle, and a thread holder hook for taking the thread from the thread lifter, substantially as described.

2. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a stationary elongated thread holder inclined to'the plane of motion of the needle, meats for supporting the thread holder, and-a thread lifter, thread hook and take-up cooperating to pass a loop of thread around the. thread holder, substantially as described.

3. A look stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a curved needle, and needle segment, a needle guide, an annular support therefor movable about an axis common to the needle segment, a collar for holding the annular support in position, ball bearings between the annular support and needle segment, a frictional bearing between the annular support and the collar, and tappets on the needle segment for ac- -tuating the annular support, substantially as described.

4. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, comprising a curved needle, a needle segment, a needle uide, an annular The needle then' withdraws and pulls a loop of thread into support therefor-movable about the axis of the needle segment and normally held from oscillationwith the needle segment by the difference in frictional resistance on its 0p- 'foot, a thread measurer,

"thread measurerto regulate the amount of slack thread given thereby to the take-up, substantially as described. i

'6. A look stitch shoe-sewing ing, in combination,.stitch forming-mechanism comprising a take-up, a thread measurer, a work support, a presser foot, a lever for actuating the thread ineasurer, a slotted link connecting the presser foot with the lethe threadholder,-

curved hooked needle,

vided with a ver for actuating the thread m'easurer, whereby'the stroke of saidlever is regulated, substantially as described.

sewing machine,

7. A look stitch shoe having, in combination, an oscillating .a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of theiwor inclined to the plane of motion of the, needle, means for supportingthe thread holder and means for carrying the needle thread over scribed.

8. A lock stitch shoe sewing ing, in combination, hooked needle, a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the'needle and inclined to the plane of motion of the needle fpronose depending'from the side of the thread holder adjacentto the needle, a support for the thread holder, provided with abifurcated end to embrace the nose of the thread holder and hold the same from rotation and means for carrying the needle thread over stantially as described.

9. A look stitch shoe sewing machine,hav-

ing, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle, a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle and inclined to the plane,of motion of the needle, a support for the thread holder consisting of the casing loosely embracing the, sides of the thread holder and a bar ing the needle thread over the thread holder, substantially as described. I

10. A. look stitch shoe sewing machine, an oscillating having, in. combination, curved hooked needle, a looper, a,

lifter oscillating in the plane of mo ion. of

and means connected with the 'having, mechanism comprising a take-up, a presser" machine, havas the needle and' substantially as demachine, havan oscillating curved.

the thread holder, sub

extended across the. bottom of the casing and means for carry "tially as described. i

the needle for taking the loop' of thread from the needle, and athread hook oscillating in a plane at right angles to the plane of motion of the needle for taking the thread from the lifter and carrying it over the thread holder,

11. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine, in combination, stitch forming foot, a thread measurer, Work support, a presser foot carrying lever, a presser foot actuating lever, means for-imparting equal oscillations to the prcsser foot actuating lever; independent of the position of the resser foot, a cam for imparting to the thread measurer a thread pulling stroke,

feedv mechanism, a

substantially as described,

a spring for imparting thereto a thread delivery stroke, a connecting device between the presser foot carrying lever. and the thread measurer acting to limit the thread delivery stroke of the thread measurer accordin to the thickness of the'work, substantia ly as described. 12. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle penetrating the work from above", a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle and inclined to the plane of the needle, means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, and an open casing substantially surrounding the thread holder and loosely holding it in op,- erative position, substantially as described.

7 13. A lock-stitch sl1oe sewing machine, having, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle, a needle segment, an oscillating curved a'wl, an independent awl segment, meansfor supporting the needle segment and awl segment so that the'needle and awl always remain in' the same plane with each other, means for oscillating the needle segment and awl segment, means for reciprocat ng the needle and awl segment in a line at right angles to on the same side of the work as the needle and means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, substantially as described.

' 14. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, "an oscillating curved hooked needle, an oscillating curved awl penetrating the work from. the opposite side to the needle, a needle segment, an in dependent awl segment,- means for support ing the needle segment and awl segmentso that, the needle and awl always remain in the same plane with each other, a looper, a take-up, a thread holderon the same. side of the work-as the needle, meansfor carrying the needle thread over the thread holder and means for actuating theparts, substan- 15. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine,

the plane-of the 'needle and awl, a looper, a take-up, a stationary thread holder having, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle, an oscillating curved independent awl segment, means for supporting the needle segment and awl segment so that the needle and and always remain in'the same plane with each other, means for moving the supporting means for the needle and and segments while the and is in the work to feed the, work, a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the-same side of the work as the needle and inclined to the plane of the needle, means for carrying the needle thread over the thread'holder, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

16. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle, an oscillating curved awl, a needle segment, an independent awl segment, means for supporting the needle and awl segments so that the needle and awl always remain in the same plane with each other, a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder mounted on the same side of the work as the needle and ,inclined to the plane of the needle, means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described. I

17. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine. having, in combination, a curved hooked needle, a curved'awl located and operating always in the plane of the needle, a looper, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle and inclined to the plane of the needle, means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, a take-up and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

18. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hooked needle, a looper, a curved awl located and operating always in the plane of the needle, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle having its axis inclined to the plane of the needle and lying in a plane at right angles to the plane of the needle, a looper,

a take-np,.and means for carrying the needle thread over the slnitt-le holder, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

19. A lock-stitcl'i shoe sewing machine, having, incombination, a curved hooked needle, a looper, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle, having its axis inclined to the plane of the needle and lying in a plane at right angles to the plane of the needle,

means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, a take-up, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

20. A lock-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hooked needle, a looper, a curved awl acting to feed the work, a stationary elongated thread holder having its axis inclined to the plane of the needle, and lying in a. plane at rightangles to the plane of the needle, means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, a take-up and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described;

21. A look stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a hooked needle, a looper, a. take-up, a stationary thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle, an open easing constituting the sole, means for holding the thread holder inoperative position, an oscillating thread lift-er for spread 1g the needle loop, and an oscillating threadholder hook for carrying the loop over the thread holder, sul'istai'itially as described.

22. A look stitch ,shoe sewing machine, having, in con'ihination, a hooked'needld'a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated thread holder on the same side of the workas the. needle, means for spreading the needle loop, and oscillating means for carrying the loop over the end of the thread holder, sub

stantially as described.

23. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, an oscillating curved hooked needle, a looper, a take-up, a stationary elongated substantially cylindrical thread holder on the same side of the work as. the needle, an open easing substantially surrounding the thread holder and loosely holding it in operative position, means for prei-ent-ing rotation of the thread holder in the open casing, and means for carrying the needle thread over the thread holder, sub stantially as described.

24. A look stitch' shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a hooked needle, a looper, a take-up, a. stationary thread holder on the same side of the work as the .needle, means for holding the thread holder in operative position, an oscillating thread lifter for spreading the needle loop, and an oscillating thread-holder hook independent of the thread holder for carrying the loop over the thread holder, substantially as described.

25. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a. hooked needle, a looper, a take-up, a stationary thread holder on the same side of the work as the needle, an open casing'constitutingthe sole means for holding and retaining the thread holder in operativeposition, an oscillating thread lifter for spreading the needle loop, and an oscillating thread-holder hook for carrying .the loop over the thread holder, substantially hooked needle, a looper, atake-up, 'a smooth, 

